Now before we move on to the glue, we want to use this to our advantage and take some measurements of where the side art should go. As for the P7 cable I do not have that hoked up either. It seems odd that the audio was playing before the video, but it was necessary to do so in order to get things syncing. I have decided to use the existing Popeye Power supply and add a second power supply to supply the +12 and -5 that Donkey Kong needs. The game works, and should work fine for some time. Well I have not heard from my painter. Tape it in place with masking tape, with a long piece across the middle.
Later on I plan to rewire a new harness. I also cleaned all of the pieces I removed, which were also caked with dust. As you can see, my machine had counted up 224,456 credits. I think the edge connector was there for a larger test point or for possible add-ons at a later time or something haha but you can use an edge connector like markrvp did on his resotre if you do not have the original wire harness. I will continue to fiddle with it. The new fixture has an 8-watt florescent tube as opposed to the 10-watt bulb in the original but it works just fine even though the Nintendo power supply only puts out a maximum of 100 volts.
Long story short my painter let this gal move into his place. The wiring harness from the coin door that connects to the main wiring harness is hacked, so I'll be looking for a new one of those. They even took great effort to make sure the wires were as close to the correct colors that Nintendo originally used allowing for easy troubleshooting if you were to reference the original schematics. Does anyone know of any guides or something that could point me in the right direction? If that is the case, then I'll have to figure out how to spay paint my cabinet without getting paint over everything else in my garage :- Here are the Guts. These bolts must be loosened and removed from the inside.
Areas where they differ are marked in Gray. The tooth and plug are glued to the cabinet with Gorilla Glue. Again, bit by bit I stripped it down, and cleaned where I could, making sure I pieced it back together as I found it. I do have some extra eproms too. What does matter is your amount of patience. He is using Bondo wood filler but you can do the same thing with Bondo Autobody filler. I also attached the Donkey Kong control panel to the machine.
A real Donkey Kong cabinet has the boards mounted on stand-offs with no cage present. Here's what's in store for me this time: As you can see, this was converted to a Mario Bros. Before I use wood filler I rough up the wood with some 60 grit. The only reason I can use the original supply is because the Monitor and light fixture plug into the outlets and no other power is fed to them unlike the Boards themselves which were fed, +5 and +24 from one power supply and +12 and -5 from the other. Careful not to short anything out.
Good luck on the other 4 cabs! Note, this is only true for stand-up cabinets. I bought replacement side art from them for my machine a year or so ago and was pleased with it. If you put 12V into a 5V component, it could be the end of that component. It will also be easier to make sure that I have everything hooked up correctly because the wiring harness between Popeye and Donkey Kong are almost identical See my Donkey Kong Page for the comparison. But anyway if you have the original wire harness then you will not be using the edge connector in your restore. It doesn't have a monitor either.
I used a ruler along the top and back of the sticker to make sure it was level front-to-back and top-to-bottom. But there are the exceptions, especially those n-in-1 boards. I'll have to replace this panel. Some of the complications I ran into throughout the dev process: -Jrok encoder wasn't working initially. In my continual search for an improved direct feed capture setup, I came across Blue Iris capture software.
Notice in this picture I also have the White trim on! That particle board is crap and will easily break when you tighten the bolts. I used a picture of a Donkey Kong machine to determine where the bolts poked through, and lined up the side art according to that picture. Fixed Wood and Sanded — I left out something when I wrote this so let me correct it. Donkey Kong machines have monitor brackets that mount with four large bolts two on each side that go straight through the sides of the machine. The video is now cleaner than it ever has been, and the video and both audio feeds are relatively synced audio from direct feed and audio from web cam. I also need to fabricate a cardboard monitor bezel for inside the game. Never use two different power supplies to power the same board.
If anyone knows what the original color of the cabinet is, please send me an Email! My next question is how much do you think it cost to build your machine? Neil This is very cool Neil. Multiply this figure by the 18,000 Donkey Kong cabinets that were supposedly produced back then, and you start to get an insight to how big the coin op industry actually was. The inverter board is usually mounted right on the sanyo monitor. He called the other night and we talked for about two hours. I now have a fully operational Donkey Kong! Here is the pinout of Donkey Kong edge connector compared to Popeye. Tried a heat gun, and I was able to remove the paint. Merry Christmas to us lucky arcade machine owners.
We use a Dewalt Palm Sander and Diablo sandpaper. For the inside pics, I am interested in how the monitor is held in place top and bottom. I think I can just make sure I clean it up real good when I'm done painting. Neil, the work done to this cabinet is nothing short of stellar. I used an alligator clip.