. I have replaced the voltage regulator and the horn relay,also all wiring has been replaced. The top inner small stud is the ground terminal of the starter relay. Get your test probe on that contact while someone tries to crank the car. Okay, your pic on the left of the starter shows the starter motor with the solenoid on top.
There will also be some connection heading to A terminal on regulator, to coil, to ammeter, and to gas gauge. Everything else on the starter relay needs to be hooked up for this, and the car needs to be in neutral or park, with the key on. If I keep turning the key, it will eventually click and then start. It worked just fine but for just to be sure we had the starter engine checked at the local electrical shop. I wonder if the starter maybe is out of lubrication, if you've had it a small eternity, maybe the slight thermal expansion and lack of grease makes it bind.
I know, I know, disconnect the battery is the first step. My DeSoto manual is probably close enough for a 49 Chrysler. These starters are as close to a bulletproof design as ever came down the pike, and this design was used for many years, so any parts store will have a rebuilt one on the shelf, if you don't like the idea of rebuilding one yourself. Thus the two starter designs are not interchangeable. I tried the fuel down the wing nut trick, once it seemed to work and once it didn't. The main thing to verify is whether or not there is 12 volts on the large brown wire which goes from the starter control relay down to the starter.
Just past finger tight it just snapped. Behind the front bumper cover or under the hood close to the radiator support? By the way, do you happen to know if the person who assembled the engine ran the oil pump for a while with the distributor removed, to verify the engine has good oil circulation and oil pressure. Someone on the list was pulling his engine for some other reason, and I advised him to have the converter rebuilt at the same time since he had already done 90% of the labor involved. Click on image to view it larger in a new tab. Performing the starter relay test. Switch to start but you must turn key to start position or car won't start ok so this how you doit till you find repair ok so turn key on to start postion and push bottom car will start ok hope help you guys this to get you go till you find what's problem ok The key switch controls supplying positive battery voltage at the relay box start relay coil terminal 86.
So take the car to an alignment shop and have them inspect the wheels, tires and front end for problems. If that is what you did and it worked once, but not another time, I think you're having intermittent ignition problems, not fuel problems, but try it a few more times and keep records - we'll dope out what is happening when. I thought maybe after it ran awhile it would stop, so I backed out of the driveway. Battery terminals are cleaned and greased. Once a ignition switch or starter relay has started going bad replace it quickly as it is a fire hazard, the ignition switch may go up in smoke at any time or the starter relay could drop in at any time and start turning the starter, if this happens while your car is locked up in the garage it will keep tuning until something gives or catches fire. Question from Wayne 1951 : In my perpetual quest to ressurect the '51 Crown Imperial Limo, I have had the 6 volt starter rebuilt and have just gotten it re-installed. If it cranks, your problem is a bad or misadjusted neutral safety switch or a bad wire to same, just inspect the wire or replace it with a new one, or replace the neutral safety switch, as applicable.
The following wiring diagram is the starting circuit diagram for the 1953-1954 Chrysler Crown Imperial. Question from Boyd: We have a problem with the starter motor. Turning it without the plugs installed is a very good idea, by the way, because you remove all possibilities of hydraulic lock. MoPar starters are a pain to get off, I had to remove one exhaust pipe to get mine out, loosening it off was the easy part. I have replaced the voltage regulator and the horn relay,also all wiring has been replaced. More Tips from Dick: 1.
You can do the following test with the starter in the car but it makes it a bit more difficult and there is a chance of shorting out the test jumper cables to ground. It's a less common cause for the problem, but the hard work to get to it is already done, by I listened to your van crank over. I have chased this ghost for a couple of nights already and all I can think of is that for some reason my starter is drawing power all the time. The slant six Valiants, Plymouths and Dodges continued to use the direct drive starter, supplied by Prestolite, until the end of the 1966 model year. If so, - then there is definetly something wrong, - with the starter itself, or perhaps the starter relay, - or maybe even the ignition switch. I tried doing like you suggested with removing the field terminal and jumping it, but no luck. One terminal is larger than the other.
The only time there is juice at the starter is when the switch is in the start position. When you release the starter everything on the opposite side of the solenoid is dead The starter can fall off and everything else can run fine. As with any good rebuild, it helps to know what you're dealing with, and when it's time to pack up the tools and simply get a different starter. The engine was changed significantly between 1958 and 1959. The crimped lugs at the block end can become corroded inside where you cannot see and cause a high resistance connection. They are the same from '59-'62.